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Canoe Building
The Tools
Block planes
(small and medium preferably)
For shaping stems pieces, gunwales
and other finish work.
(small and medium preferably)
For shaping stems pieces, gunwales
and other finish work.
I like to use the Surform™ scrapers from Stanley™
to fair the hull; it will make quick work of it.
T Squares and framing square
A general framing square and a sheetrock T square is best, and they
are for the lofting of the forms.
to fair the hull; it will make quick work of it.
T Squares and framing square
A general framing square and a sheetrock T square is best, and they
are for the lofting of the forms.
Orbital sander
If you do not already have one and will be buying one, pay a
few extra bucks and get a decent one with a vacuum
attachment, it will be worth it.
If you do not already have one and will be buying one, pay a
few extra bucks and get a decent one with a vacuum
attachment, it will be worth it.
Router bits (if you are not buying a kit)
These bits are only necessary if you are cutting down your
own strips. Appropriately enough, they are called canoe bits,
and are used to put the bead and cove on your strips. If you do
you can buy the strips already milled.
These bits are only necessary if you are cutting down your
own strips. Appropriately enough, they are called canoe bits,
and are used to put the bead and cove on your strips. If you do
you can buy the strips already milled.
Tack puller or flat tipped screwdriver
If you choose to strip your hull using staples, this tool will pull
out all of the staples you put in the hull while stripping.
If you choose to strip your hull using staples, this tool will pull
out all of the staples you put in the hull while stripping.
Drill bit with counter sink (#6 and #8),
These will mostly be used for attaching the stems and if you
choose putting screws into the gunwales. They are
inexpensive and will make the job of getting those screw
heads flush much easier.
These will mostly be used for attaching the stems and if you
choose putting screws into the gunwales. They are
inexpensive and will make the job of getting those screw
heads flush much easier.
Spring clamps
You should have 5 or so around. They are extremely helpful when you need
and extra hand to hold down a piece of wood or hold up the cloth while you
fiberglass the inside of the hull. Also, when using epoxy as glue, not only is it
not necessary to have high pressure clamping, it is undesirable. The idea of
epoxy as a glue relies on the ability of the epoxy to absorb into all pieces
being glued. When too much pressure is applied, the epoxy will squeeze out.
You should have 5 or so around. They are extremely helpful when you need
and extra hand to hold down a piece of wood or hold up the cloth while you
fiberglass the inside of the hull. Also, when using epoxy as glue, not only is it
not necessary to have high pressure clamping, it is undesirable. The idea of
epoxy as a glue relies on the ability of the epoxy to absorb into all pieces
being glued. When too much pressure is applied, the epoxy will squeeze out.
Electric Teakettle or Wallpaper Steamer
This is one of the ingredients of the poor mans steam box. You will need this
for steaming the inner and outer stem pieces as well as the deck supports if
you are building a decked canoe.
This is one of the ingredients of the poor mans steam box. You will need this
for steaming the inner and outer stem pieces as well as the deck supports if
you are building a decked canoe.
5-foot section of 3” PVC pipe capped on one end
Use this over the teakettle spout or the end of the wallpaper steamer for your
steam box. By simply stuffing a few hardwood strips up the pipe and adding
steam you will be able to bend the stems and supports to what you need.
Use this over the teakettle spout or the end of the wallpaper steamer for your
steam box. By simply stuffing a few hardwood strips up the pipe and adding
steam you will be able to bend the stems and supports to what you need.
Belt sander
There is absolutely no better tool for shaping the stem pieces and shaping your scarf joints than
a belt sander; it will make quick and accurate work of it. However this can be accomplished with
files, planes and the oscillating hand sander.
There is absolutely no better tool for shaping the stem pieces and shaping your scarf joints than
a belt sander; it will make quick and accurate work of it. However this can be accomplished with
files, planes and the oscillating hand sander.
Oscillating spindle sander or disc / belt sander
As much as I would like to tell you that I hand cut every strip with a knife and
file, I have to admit that I usually walk them over to the spindle sander and
finish them off after I rough cut them with a knife.
It has not always been this way however and you most certainly can strip a
boat using nothing more than a block plane and razor knife, I know I have.
As much as I would like to tell you that I hand cut every strip with a knife and
file, I have to admit that I usually walk them over to the spindle sander and
finish them off after I rough cut them with a knife.
It has not always been this way however and you most certainly can strip a
boat using nothing more than a block plane and razor knife, I know I have.
Shop Vacuum
This is an invaluable piece of equipment if you can hook it up to your orbital sander. It provides
a much healthier environment not to mention far more pleasant working conditions. Although
you do not need it to build the boat, I cannot overstate how nice it will be to have this.
This is an invaluable piece of equipment if you can hook it up to your orbital sander. It provides
a much healthier environment not to mention far more pleasant working conditions. Although
you do not need it to build the boat, I cannot overstate how nice it will be to have this.
Chalk line
You only need this once to snap a line down the strongback. It will make the job easier and more
accurate. If you don’t have one you will have to very carefully measure out the centerline of the
strongback and draw a line with a pencil. If you plan on using the strongback from more than
one boat you may want to consider using a circular saw set to a 1/8” depth and cut down the
chalk line to make it permanent.
You only need this once to snap a line down the strongback. It will make the job easier and more
accurate. If you don’t have one you will have to very carefully measure out the centerline of the
strongback and draw a line with a pencil. If you plan on using the strongback from more than
one boat you may want to consider using a circular saw set to a 1/8” depth and cut down the
chalk line to make it permanent.
A box of pencils
I only include this here because of the great nuisance it is to constantly be looking for one and
you will need one often. You can either buy a box now or count the number of times you will
hear yourself say “Where the heck is that pencil”.
I only include this here because of the great nuisance it is to constantly be looking for one and
you will need one often. You can either buy a box now or count the number of times you will
hear yourself say “Where the heck is that pencil”.
You do not need a vast array of tools to build this boat. In fact, if you purchase the canoe kit all
of the milling is pretty much done for you and you can build a canoe with nothing but hand tools.
That being said, I have never seen a tool I didn't like or was willing to buy.
Below is a list of the tools I have at hand when I start a project.
of the milling is pretty much done for you and you can build a canoe with nothing but hand tools.
That being said, I have never seen a tool I didn't like or was willing to buy.
Below is a list of the tools I have at hand when I start a project.
Hot glue gun
If you are building without staples, this is our preferred way to
keep those strips in place while drying. If you are building
using staples then it is not absolutely essential to have one,
however, it is extremely helpful for temporarily attaching blocks
If you are building without staples, this is our preferred way to
keep those strips in place while drying. If you are building
using staples then it is not absolutely essential to have one,
however, it is extremely helpful for temporarily attaching blocks
Hole Saw or Forstner bit
You will need a 2 to 2 1/2 inch bit or saw for drilling holes around
the edges of the stem forms. These holes will be used for
clamping down the inner and outer stems during the steam
bending and glue up phase. Either one will do though I prefer to
work with a Forstner bit for drilling holes. Complete sets can be
had for a reasonable price.
You will need a 2 to 2 1/2 inch bit or saw for drilling holes around
the edges of the stem forms. These holes will be used for
clamping down the inner and outer stems during the steam
bending and glue up phase. Either one will do though I prefer to
work with a Forstner bit for drilling holes. Complete sets can be
had for a reasonable price.
Japanese back saw
Sometimes known as a pull saw, I find these saws invaluable
for their flexibility. I use them extensively for cutting off the
ends of strips flush to the stems, notching out support
members for the decked canoes, sizing up the gunwales and
a host of other jobs. Inexpensive versions can be found at
the local big box hardware store.
Sometimes known as a pull saw, I find these saws invaluable
for their flexibility. I use them extensively for cutting off the
ends of strips flush to the stems, notching out support
members for the decked canoes, sizing up the gunwales and
a host of other jobs. Inexpensive versions can be found at
the local big box hardware store.
Chisels
You will likely on need a good ¾” chisel if you are good with a chisel.
However, I highly recommend a good set of basic sizes. If you fancy yourself a wood worker and you
don’t already have a good set of chisels, then this is your opportunity (excuse) to pony up and get a
set. A good set of well maintained chisels will last a lifetime.
You will likely on need a good ¾” chisel if you are good with a chisel.
However, I highly recommend a good set of basic sizes. If you fancy yourself a wood worker and you
don’t already have a good set of chisels, then this is your opportunity (excuse) to pony up and get a
set. A good set of well maintained chisels will last a lifetime.
Razor knife and a pack of razors
This will become one of your best friends as you whittle down the
strips to fit. Be sure and get a pack of extra blades. You will blast through a dozen or so building a
stripper. A dull blade will cause frustration and bad cuts that you will be tempted to use, not to
mention the increased likeliness that you will cut yourself trying to plow a dull blade through the
wood. I know this, as I am guilty of it myself. Not because I didn’t have the blade but because I was
too involved with what I was doing to take the time and change it out.
This will become one of your best friends as you whittle down the
strips to fit. Be sure and get a pack of extra blades. You will blast through a dozen or so building a
stripper. A dull blade will cause frustration and bad cuts that you will be tempted to use, not to
mention the increased likeliness that you will cut yourself trying to plow a dull blade through the
wood. I know this, as I am guilty of it myself. Not because I didn’t have the blade but because I was
too involved with what I was doing to take the time and change it out.
Jigsaw
You will use this for cutting the decks and the forms mostly, though if you have a deep-throated band
saw, by all means use it. Because I am an impatient sort, I find myself using the jigsaw to cut hatches
and seam lines along the bottoms of hulls as well, however all of these tasks can be accomplished
with tools such as the back saw, razor knifes and chisels.
You will use this for cutting the decks and the forms mostly, though if you have a deep-throated band
saw, by all means use it. Because I am an impatient sort, I find myself using the jigsaw to cut hatches
and seam lines along the bottoms of hulls as well, however all of these tasks can be accomplished
with tools such as the back saw, razor knifes and chisels.
Miter box or miter saw
The miter box will make quick work of scarfing the strips together,
However, if you have a miter saw, so much the better. Most Miter saws will cut to 60 degrees on one
side of zero and 60 degrees is good enough when talking about scarfing strips together. Let me make
a huge disclaimer here. A 60-degree cut on a gunwale is definitely not enough for a scarf joint. We will
talk more about that later.
The miter box will make quick work of scarfing the strips together,
However, if you have a miter saw, so much the better. Most Miter saws will cut to 60 degrees on one
side of zero and 60 degrees is good enough when talking about scarfing strips together. Let me make
a huge disclaimer here. A 60-degree cut on a gunwale is definitely not enough for a scarf joint. We will
talk more about that later.
3” C Clamps (At least 20 for a canoe)
There is no way around it; you will need these to put the gunwale in place. If
you only do one gunwale at a time you will need 20 for a larger canoe, if you do
both sides at the same time you will need twice that many. Other than saving
time on the project, there is no need to clamp both sides at the same time.
There is no way around it; you will need these to put the gunwale in place. If
you only do one gunwale at a time you will need 20 for a larger canoe, if you do
both sides at the same time you will need twice that many. Other than saving
time on the project, there is no need to clamp both sides at the same time.
Table saw (only if you are not buying a kit)
This is another one of those items that if you don’t already have one or access
to one, then you should seriously consider getting a strip kit rather than
purchasing the saw. If you are going to rip your own strips, there is no getting
around this item. Get a good, sharp and thin finish blade and if you don’t
already have one, you will need a couple of feather boards to hold the strips
down and into the blade. If you have an inexpensive home version of a table
saw then you might find the motor dogging down on you. A good high quality
This is another one of those items that if you don’t already have one or access
to one, then you should seriously consider getting a strip kit rather than
purchasing the saw. If you are going to rip your own strips, there is no getting
around this item. Get a good, sharp and thin finish blade and if you don’t
already have one, you will need a couple of feather boards to hold the strips
down and into the blade. If you have an inexpensive home version of a table
saw then you might find the motor dogging down on you. A good high quality
Router Table (Again, if you are not buying a kit)
If you don’t already have a router, and router table then you
may want to seriously consider getting a strip kit already cut
for you. Chances are if you haven’t had a need for one up to
now you won’t in the future.
You will need a router table for the canoe bits. A cheap router
table can be had for about a hundred bucks, however they
can go for as much as a thousand dollars. You will need a
router to install into the table if does not have an integrated
motor. Be sure and have router bits that match the size of the
chuck on the router.
If you don’t already have a router, and router table then you
may want to seriously consider getting a strip kit already cut
for you. Chances are if you haven’t had a need for one up to
now you won’t in the future.
You will need a router table for the canoe bits. A cheap router
table can be had for about a hundred bucks, however they
can go for as much as a thousand dollars. You will need a
router to install into the table if does not have an integrated
motor. Be sure and have router bits that match the size of the
chuck on the router.
¼” round course File
During the stripping project, there will be a number of strips that will have to be cut and fitted into the
hull. Mostly this is either when you are using filler and relief strips or when you are stripping the
bottom of the hull. When you cut strips to fit into another strip you typically like to keep the bead
side in tact and cut away at the cove side. When you do that you will have to replace the cove to
match up with the adjoining strip on the boat. This is the perfect tool for that. I typically clamp the
strip in a bench vise and spend about 15 seconds or so filing away on the edge that was cut and
end up with a perfect cove.
During the stripping project, there will be a number of strips that will have to be cut and fitted into the
hull. Mostly this is either when you are using filler and relief strips or when you are stripping the
bottom of the hull. When you cut strips to fit into another strip you typically like to keep the bead
side in tact and cut away at the cove side. When you do that you will have to replace the cove to
match up with the adjoining strip on the boat. This is the perfect tool for that. I typically clamp the
strip in a bench vise and spend about 15 seconds or so filing away on the edge that was cut and
end up with a perfect cove.
Well that is pretty much the list of tools you will need. There is a chance that I may have left
something out that will come up in the DVD or in this book. For that I ask for forgiveness in
advance. Of course you will need all of the items that go with these tools such as sand paper,
screws, blades and so forth. Chances are, if you are considering building this boat, you already
have some tools so you will not be starting from scratch. On the big ticket items like the table saw
and router table, if your budget doesn’t support the $700 to $800 it would cost to buy these new,
you should keep your eye on the want ads or yard sales for people selling used equipment, there
are great bargains out there. If you absolutely have no room or need for these after the boat is
done, then an alternative is a good friend or the local trade / high school. If that does not work out
for you then you can always buy the strips already milled for you.
It will cost you a premium over simply buying the lumber and milling it
yourself, however it will save you considerable time and effort as well
as alleviate the need for the table saw, router, canoe bits and router table.
something out that will come up in the DVD or in this book. For that I ask for forgiveness in
advance. Of course you will need all of the items that go with these tools such as sand paper,
screws, blades and so forth. Chances are, if you are considering building this boat, you already
have some tools so you will not be starting from scratch. On the big ticket items like the table saw
and router table, if your budget doesn’t support the $700 to $800 it would cost to buy these new,
you should keep your eye on the want ads or yard sales for people selling used equipment, there
are great bargains out there. If you absolutely have no room or need for these after the boat is
done, then an alternative is a good friend or the local trade / high school. If that does not work out
for you then you can always buy the strips already milled for you.
It will cost you a premium over simply buying the lumber and milling it
yourself, however it will save you considerable time and effort as well
as alleviate the need for the table saw, router, canoe bits and router table.
Staple gun
Nothing special about this, however, make sure you have one
that feels good in your hand as you will be using it a lot. I prefer
the PowerShot ™ by Arrow. I find it easier to control the driving
power of the gun because of the reverse force of the handle.
Nothing special about this, however, make sure you have one
that feels good in your hand as you will be using it a lot. I prefer
the PowerShot ™ by Arrow. I find it easier to control the driving
power of the gun because of the reverse force of the handle.