 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
Placing the Forms
Now that we have our stems done, our forms are cut out and our strongback made its time to put it all
together and assemble our building jig. Although this is not a difficult process, it is one that take careful
scrutiny and attention to detail. Any mistake at this point will directly translate to the actual hull being
built. I feel confident if you follow the steps outlined here that you will have no problems.
together and assemble our building jig. Although this is not a difficult process, it is one that take careful
scrutiny and attention to detail. Any mistake at this point will directly translate to the actual hull being
built. I feel confident if you follow the steps outlined here that you will have no problems.
First we need to make buttocks or cleats for the forms. These are
simply cut lengths of 2" X 4" lumber that will be screwed to the forms
and strongback. As a rule you should make them at least as wide as
the tab on the forms. I tend to make them the same length as the width
of the strongback. This makes it easier to shim them later on when I
am truing up the forms. Once the cleats are made, use a carpenters
square to draw center lines all around the cleat. You will need these to
match up with the strongback and forms. Your forms should already
have centerlines drawn on them if you purchased the patterns as part
of a kit, if not you will have to make them now. Transfer the centerline
on the form to the opposite side of the form so that it is visible at least
one inch up the tab.
being careful to not only align the centerlines on the forms to the will
make truing up the forms easier in just a couple of steps.
will make truing up the forms easier in just a couple of steps.
Now put the forms aside.
simply cut lengths of 2" X 4" lumber that will be screwed to the forms
and strongback. As a rule you should make them at least as wide as
the tab on the forms. I tend to make them the same length as the width
of the strongback. This makes it easier to shim them later on when I
am truing up the forms. Once the cleats are made, use a carpenters
square to draw center lines all around the cleat. You will need these to
match up with the strongback and forms. Your forms should already
have centerlines drawn on them if you purchased the patterns as part
of a kit, if not you will have to make them now. Transfer the centerline
on the form to the opposite side of the form so that it is visible at least
one inch up the tab.
being careful to not only align the centerlines on the forms to the will
make truing up the forms easier in just a couple of steps.
will make truing up the forms easier in just a couple of steps.
Now put the forms aside.
It is time to start laying out the placement of the forms on the
strongback. In order to so that we will first have to identify the middle
form on the boat and mark that location on the strongback. You can
find this information on the table of offsets. You will also find the
location of every other form with respect to the adjacent forms or the
center of the boat.
If you were careful building your strongback, the deck of the jig
should be square, so this process is s simple matter of locating each
form location and using a square to draw a line across the
strongback. I have found that the "Rapid Squares" like one being
used in the picture works very well for drawing perpendicular lines.
If everything has gone right you should have laid out the forms so that
the last form one each end is marked in just a couple of inches short
of the stem form lengths. This will allow the stems to overhang the
strongback by a couple of inches making the strips close to the sheer
easier to place.
Now that all of the station forms are laid out it is important to make
sure they are all place on the center of the strongback. This is easily
accomplished by marking a centerline down the strongback. There
are three ways to accomplish this. I prefer to run the planks on a table
saw with a thin kerf blade set to about 1/8"depth. This leaves a nice
straight easy to see cut the length of the strongback deck. The
second alternative is to use a chalk line. Simply place a paneling nail
at the center of one end of the strongback, pulling the line taught and
snapping a line. The last alternative is to measure at 2 foot intervals
along the strongback and using a yard stick draw a line. This should
only be used as a last resort as it is difficult to keep a line straight over
long distances.
strongback. In order to so that we will first have to identify the middle
form on the boat and mark that location on the strongback. You can
find this information on the table of offsets. You will also find the
location of every other form with respect to the adjacent forms or the
center of the boat.
If you were careful building your strongback, the deck of the jig
should be square, so this process is s simple matter of locating each
form location and using a square to draw a line across the
strongback. I have found that the "Rapid Squares" like one being
used in the picture works very well for drawing perpendicular lines.
If everything has gone right you should have laid out the forms so that
the last form one each end is marked in just a couple of inches short
of the stem form lengths. This will allow the stems to overhang the
strongback by a couple of inches making the strips close to the sheer
easier to place.
Now that all of the station forms are laid out it is important to make
sure they are all place on the center of the strongback. This is easily
accomplished by marking a centerline down the strongback. There
are three ways to accomplish this. I prefer to run the planks on a table
saw with a thin kerf blade set to about 1/8"depth. This leaves a nice
straight easy to see cut the length of the strongback deck. The
second alternative is to use a chalk line. Simply place a paneling nail
at the center of one end of the strongback, pulling the line taught and
snapping a line. The last alternative is to measure at 2 foot intervals
along the strongback and using a yard stick draw a line. This should
only be used as a last resort as it is difficult to keep a line straight over
long distances.
It is time to start placing the forms where they belong. It doesn't
matter which side of the lines you put the forms on as long as you are
consistent. Use a 2 1/2" decking screw to secure the cleat in place
making sure that the centerlines from the forms, the cleats and the
stongback all line up as well as being sure that the form is square
along the placement line.
There is one hitch to the process. At one end of the canoe, the cleat
from the canoe will be in the way of the stem form. Not to worry, there
is a simple way around that problem. Simply flip the form around. If
you look in the picture to the right, you will notice that the last two
forms cleats face each other. You will also notice that the stem form
snugs up nicely to the last body form. Just make sure while you are
doing this that you keep the proper spacing between the forms. This
can be confusing. If you are building a symmetrical boat, it is a simple
matter of comparing it to the other end. If you are building an
asymmetrical boat you will have to do the math. When in doubt, refer
to the table of offsets, everything you need is there.
matter which side of the lines you put the forms on as long as you are
consistent. Use a 2 1/2" decking screw to secure the cleat in place
making sure that the centerlines from the forms, the cleats and the
stongback all line up as well as being sure that the form is square
along the placement line.
There is one hitch to the process. At one end of the canoe, the cleat
from the canoe will be in the way of the stem form. Not to worry, there
is a simple way around that problem. Simply flip the form around. If
you look in the picture to the right, you will notice that the last two
forms cleats face each other. You will also notice that the stem form
snugs up nicely to the last body form. Just make sure while you are
doing this that you keep the proper spacing between the forms. This
can be confusing. If you are building a symmetrical boat, it is a simple
matter of comparing it to the other end. If you are building an
asymmetrical boat you will have to do the math. When in doubt, refer
to the table of offsets, everything you need is there.
Seeing how we are on the topic of the stem form, this may be a good
time to talk about the final fitting of that form as well as the inner stems
that we have steamed and glued up.
By design, the lofting procedure produces lines of the outside hull. If
we as a plan company reduced the stem for you, there would be no
room for error while you were making your stem pieces. It is much
easier for you to make your stem pieces, then measure their thickness
and reduce the height of the stem form by that amount. That way if
you are off by a bit it won't matter.
If you purchased the patterns, there is no question that forms should
have come out right. If you chose to loft yourself, then you should be
able to put the stem form up next to the adjoining body form and they
should be the same height. Measure the thickness of the inner stem,
and use whatever saw you are comfortable with to reduce the height of
the stem by that amount. You can see from the picture to the left what
the end result should look like.
If all that went well then it is time to attach the stem form to the
strongback with the rest of the body forms. It is critical that you get it
well seated and solidly placed. Here is how I do it.
Assuming that you are using 3/4" stock for your stem form, draw a line
3/8" to either side of the center line where the stem form is to be
placed. This will give you a guide to place the form. Then cut some
blocks from 2" X 4" stock and hot glue them to the stem form and the
adjoining body form as shown in the picture. I use hot glue here
because these blocks will not be easy to get to when it comes time to
lift the hull. Hot glue can be knocked away with a tap of a hammer.
***important note*** Do not use the special purpose heavy duty
woodworking hot glue as it bites but good. Use general purpose glue
as it will hold when you need it to and break free when you want it to.
Now that the stem form is in place, you can trim the inner stem to meet
the adjoining body form. Careful not to take too much off here. It is
easier to take more off then it is to put some back on.
time to talk about the final fitting of that form as well as the inner stems
that we have steamed and glued up.
By design, the lofting procedure produces lines of the outside hull. If
we as a plan company reduced the stem for you, there would be no
room for error while you were making your stem pieces. It is much
easier for you to make your stem pieces, then measure their thickness
and reduce the height of the stem form by that amount. That way if
you are off by a bit it won't matter.
If you purchased the patterns, there is no question that forms should
have come out right. If you chose to loft yourself, then you should be
able to put the stem form up next to the adjoining body form and they
should be the same height. Measure the thickness of the inner stem,
and use whatever saw you are comfortable with to reduce the height of
the stem by that amount. You can see from the picture to the left what
the end result should look like.
If all that went well then it is time to attach the stem form to the
strongback with the rest of the body forms. It is critical that you get it
well seated and solidly placed. Here is how I do it.
Assuming that you are using 3/4" stock for your stem form, draw a line
3/8" to either side of the center line where the stem form is to be
placed. This will give you a guide to place the form. Then cut some
blocks from 2" X 4" stock and hot glue them to the stem form and the
adjoining body form as shown in the picture. I use hot glue here
because these blocks will not be easy to get to when it comes time to
lift the hull. Hot glue can be knocked away with a tap of a hammer.
***important note*** Do not use the special purpose heavy duty
woodworking hot glue as it bites but good. Use general purpose glue
as it will hold when you need it to and break free when you want it to.
Now that the stem form is in place, you can trim the inner stem to meet
the adjoining body form. Careful not to take too much off here. It is
easier to take more off then it is to put some back on.
You can use c-clamps to keep the stem piece in place while you are stripping the canoe and simply
remove them as you work your way up with strips. I also like to put a small #6 screw in the top of the
form and into the stem piece to hold it there as well as a large deck screw in the bottom of the stem
which will go right into the strongback.
*****Important Note***** You must remember to take the small screw out of the stem piece before you put
in the last of the strips or it will be a real pain in the posterior to get out later. You will likely have to flip
the hull with the forms in place and you will not be happy about that. Trust me tie a string around your
finger if you have to, but remember to get that screw out before the final strips.
remove them as you work your way up with strips. I also like to put a small #6 screw in the top of the
form and into the stem piece to hold it there as well as a large deck screw in the bottom of the stem
which will go right into the strongback.
*****Important Note***** You must remember to take the small screw out of the stem piece before you put
in the last of the strips or it will be a real pain in the posterior to get out later. You will likely have to flip
the hull with the forms in place and you will not be happy about that. Trust me tie a string around your
finger if you have to, but remember to get that screw out before the final strips.
The last thing we need to talk about here is lining up the forms.
This is a real simple process but absolutely critical. It assumes that
you works space is not perfect, your strongback is not perfect and
your forms are not perfect. Trust me, they are not.
If you haven't already done so, transfer your centerlines to the top of
the forms so that they are all visible as you eye down the strongback.
Then using a small paneling nail, attach a string to the tip of each inner
stem sliding the nail up the nail as much as you have to, to make sure
the string is not touching the forms anywhere but the nails. Tie the
string off and make it tight.
Now look down the string from both ends and you should easily be
able to see where the centerlines of the forms do not match the string.
You will need to place shims (easily had at any lumber store) under the
cleats of each station to rock the forms back and forth until all of their
centerlines are under the string. There is no doubt that this is a much
easier process with two people so this would be a good time to phone
a friend.
Don't cheat here, take as much time as necessary, you will thank me
later. A well secured stem and straight forms will ensure your boat will
not paddle in circles and that is a good thing.
This is a real simple process but absolutely critical. It assumes that
you works space is not perfect, your strongback is not perfect and
your forms are not perfect. Trust me, they are not.
If you haven't already done so, transfer your centerlines to the top of
the forms so that they are all visible as you eye down the strongback.
Then using a small paneling nail, attach a string to the tip of each inner
stem sliding the nail up the nail as much as you have to, to make sure
the string is not touching the forms anywhere but the nails. Tie the
string off and make it tight.
Now look down the string from both ends and you should easily be
able to see where the centerlines of the forms do not match the string.
You will need to place shims (easily had at any lumber store) under the
cleats of each station to rock the forms back and forth until all of their
centerlines are under the string. There is no doubt that this is a much
easier process with two people so this would be a good time to phone
a friend.
Don't cheat here, take as much time as necessary, you will thank me
later. A well secured stem and straight forms will ensure your boat will
not paddle in circles and that is a good thing.
Lastly, I like to screw the forms in from underneath. Most people do
not do this but I have for some time now. It only takes a few minutes
to accomplish and then I take the screws out from the top side. This
step ensures that if the boat is cantankerous when it is time to flip it
and knock the forms out, that I can simply unscrew the forms from
underneath the boat and flip it forms and all if I have to.
This has only happened to me once, but once was enough for me to
add this step.
not do this but I have for some time now. It only takes a few minutes
to accomplish and then I take the screws out from the top side. This
step ensures that if the boat is cantankerous when it is time to flip it
and knock the forms out, that I can simply unscrew the forms from
underneath the boat and flip it forms and all if I have to.
This has only happened to me once, but once was enough for me to
add this step.